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Abbé Warré's book
Beekeeping for All:

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2. free e-book (PDF)

Warré Beekeeping
Windows in Warré hive boxes

The material for this page was kindly supplied by Katherine White.

Below left: the completed hive body.
Below right: Rebates are easy to cut with a table saw. Nick Hampshire's website has a good explanation of how to do it. A manual rebating plane or a router can also be used and, with skill, rebates can also be cut with a tenon handsaw or even with a chisel.

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Below left: Start with a hive body completed except for the back wall.
Below right: Cut a top and bottom piece to hold the window. The top piece, as seen below, has a 1 cm rebate for the top bars, and a shallower rebate the thickness of the window.

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Below left: Top piece attached with rebate for top bars uppermost.
Below right: Bottom piece attached (The window rebate on the bottom piece is not visible in this photo, but it's there.)

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Below left: piece of acrylic sheet (Plexiglass/Perspex) cut to fit.
Below right: Acrylic sheet in place. 

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Below left: Small brads tacked in to hold acrylic sheet in place until bees can propolize it.
Below right: Completed window viewed from outside.

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Below left: Rebates cut in sliding door/shutter.
Below right: rebates cut in battens to receive door.

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Below left: Battens and door laid in place prior to nailing to assure a good fit but not too tight fit in order to allow for swelling in wet conditions.  
Below right: Battens nailed in place with brads.

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Below left: Completed hive body.
Below right: Box filled with comb.

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Below left: Insulation sheeting added for winter.
Below right: Ready for the cold (If you add a tag to facilitate removal of the insulation board, slide the door over it so that it lays flat inside. If it sticks out, it will wick rainwater in under the door.

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The exterior surfaces are treated with linseed oil/beeswax (20:1). To help guard against swelling and thus jamming of the sliding door it may be advisable to treat the sliding surfaces with this mixture too.